Stepping into Lolo, Spanish chef José Pizarro’s newest restaurant in London, feels like entering a slice of his hometown in Extremadura: think rustic finishes, terracotta tiles, and a shareable all-day Iberian menu. But while the western Spanish charm is undeniable, Lolo dodges the trap of feeling overly thematic. Instead, its intimate walls surprise with a (tasteful) collection of contemporary art – where else could you enjoy tortilla beneath a Tracey Emin self-portrait? Bear in mind the strictly no-food White Cube Bermondsey gallery lies metres away. Lolo nails this balance: bold yet approachable, understated yet irresistibly romantic. As the ‘youngest sibling’ to Pizarro’s Bermondsey Street staples – the lively José tapas bar and relaxed Pizarro restaurant – it finds its own niche. By day, it’s a breezy, sunlit café; by night, an intimate, wine-fuelled retreat.
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